FrictionLabs
Unicorn Dust (fine) / Gorilla Grip (chunky)
Illustration of the product
▶ From a video review of this product
Check price on Amazon →
affiliate link · goes to an Amazon search for this product
- Texture
- Unicorn Dust = fine; Gorilla Grip = chunky
- Best for
- Climbers whose skin cracks from regular chalk, or long routes with few chances to chalk up
Why it ranks here. FrictionLabs is the single most talked-about climbing chalk on the internet — it single-handedly created the 'premium chalk' category around 2015-2017 and is still the reference point every other brand gets compared to. It generates the most debate (worth-the-money threads have 60+ comments each) and the most loyal repeat buyers, even though it's also the most-mocked for its pricing and marketing.
Owners are split into two camps. Fans say Unicorn Dust (fine) and Gorilla Grip (chunky) coat the hand more evenly with one dip than cheaper chalks, last longer on a route, and — surprisingly often — stop the skin-cracking/splitting that regular chalk causes them. Critics say the 'science' behind the marketing (Mg vs Ca ratio claims) has been debunked by chemists on Mountain Project and Reddit, that it's chemically almost identical to $10/lb alternatives, and that the subscription model exists mainly to extract recurring revenue. A recurring practical tip: buy from Amazon by the pound instead of the small subscription bags to cut the effective price. Blind/semi-blind tests (99boulders, Suck at Slab) still had it score at or near the top, but rivals like Trango Gunpowder or Bison scored close behind for a fraction of the price.
What owners like
- Repeatedly credited with stopping the skin cracking that regular chalk causes. One user: 'I haven't had finger cracking in so long, I forgot that chalk made this happen'↗
- One application is said to last a whole route or problem, so people re-chalk less often mid-climb
- Scores at or near the top in independent blind tests (99boulders, Suck at Slab), not just in its own marketing
What owners complain about
- Chemists on Mountain Project and Reddit have taken apart the magnesium-versus-calcium claims behind the marketing
- Priced well above the rest, and the subscription model is widely seen as a way to charge repeatedly
- Many long-time climbers say it is chemically almost identical to $10 to $16 per pound alternatives like Bison
“friction labs still holds that title, I know it's a lot of marketing magic but it actually works ... Honestly , I know that 90% of it is marketing bullshit, but friction labs is sincerely the best chalk I've used” — Reddit comment · u/not-strange · r/climbing · 2026-06-19
5 positive · 3 mixed · 1 neutral · 2 negative · 11 voices · ✓ all 11 linked to source
Read all 11 quotes (11 voices)
-
I've worked in the chemical industry for about 8 years, and have sold Magnesium Carbonate for industrial applications - I'm highly skeptical.
-
I find that their chalk is the only brand I've tried that doesn't cause my skin to crack open from excessive drying. I don't know how they're managing that, but it seems to work. And ... I find that one application is enough to last me most/all of a route.
-
I haven't had finger cracking in so long, I forgot that chalk made this happen.
-
As someone who litterally leaks from their tips, I only noticed the difference after switching back to my normal chalk (metollious, black diamond, Frank endo, etc.) I've done many hard boulders and sport routes and every time, friction labs seems to get the job done the best. In my opinion, it's still overpriced, it I would buy a bag and save it for the proj..
-
Last fall I have switched to Friction Labs Gorilla Grip. I feel it is different, stickier and longer lasting. It may be more expensive but I use less. Over all am I spending more, yes, but Friction Labs is worth the extra for me.
-
I don't feel like reading all this shiz but I work at a gymnastics gym and the chalk I get from there compared to friction labs is night and day. When I'm using it I find myself chalking like 5 times less than the gym chalk (Gibson).
-
friction labs still holds that title, I know it's a lot of marketing magic but it actually works ... Honestly , I know that 90% of it is marketing bullshit, but friction labs is sincerely the best chalk I've used
-
Nope.
-
COOL vid i just got bam bam friction labs chalk
-
If I were a pro athlete, this is the chalk I would want to sponsor me. But I'm not a pro athlete...that means FrictionLabs' pricing is on the stiff side.
-
We bought every climbing chalk known to climbers and ranked them all. Which climbing chalk has the best grip? Which climbing chalk is most affordable? Which climbing chalk smells the best? What is the best climbing chalk? All these questions will be answered.
