FrictionLabs
Unicorn Dust (fine) / Gorilla Grip (chunky)
Illustration of the product
▶ From a video review of this product
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- Texture
- Unicorn Dust fine; Gorilla Grip chunky
- Best for
- Skin that cracks from regular chalk, or long routes
Why it ranks here. The single most talked-about climbing chalk on the internet, the brand that created the premium chalk category and the reference point for every other. Fans say one dip coats the hand evenly, lasts a whole route, and, surprisingly often, stops the skin cracking regular chalk causes; one user forgot chalk ever did that. It scores at or near the top in independent blind tests, not just its own marketing.
Chemists on Mountain Project and Reddit have taken apart the magnesium-versus-calcium claims behind the marketing, and many long-time climbers say it is chemically almost identical to cheap alternatives like Bison. It is priced well above the rest, the subscription model is widely seen as a way to charge repeatedly, and the tip is to buy by the pound instead of small bags.
What owners like
- Stops skin cracking for many
- One dip lasts a route
- Top of blind tests
What owners complain about
- Marketing science debunked
- Priciest
- Subscription model
“friction labs still holds that title, I know it's a lot of marketing magic but it actually works ... Honestly , I know that 90% of it is marketing bullshit, but friction labs is sincerely the best chalk I've used” — Reddit comment · u/not-strange · r/climbing · 2026-06-19
5 positive · 3 mixed · 1 neutral · 2 negative · 11 voices · ✓ all 11 linked to source
Read all 11 quotes (11 voices)
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I've worked in the chemical industry for about 8 years, and have sold Magnesium Carbonate for industrial applications - I'm highly skeptical.
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I find that their chalk is the only brand I've tried that doesn't cause my skin to crack open from excessive drying. I don't know how they're managing that, but it seems to work. And ... I find that one application is enough to last me most/all of a route.
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I haven't had finger cracking in so long, I forgot that chalk made this happen.
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As someone who litterally leaks from their tips, I only noticed the difference after switching back to my normal chalk (metollious, black diamond, Frank endo, etc.) I've done many hard boulders and sport routes and every time, friction labs seems to get the job done the best. In my opinion, it's still overpriced, it I would buy a bag and save it for the proj..
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Last fall I have switched to Friction Labs Gorilla Grip. I feel it is different, stickier and longer lasting. It may be more expensive but I use less. Over all am I spending more, yes, but Friction Labs is worth the extra for me.
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I don't feel like reading all this shiz but I work at a gymnastics gym and the chalk I get from there compared to friction labs is night and day. When I'm using it I find myself chalking like 5 times less than the gym chalk (Gibson).
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friction labs still holds that title, I know it's a lot of marketing magic but it actually works ... Honestly , I know that 90% of it is marketing bullshit, but friction labs is sincerely the best chalk I've used
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Nope.
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COOL vid i just got bam bam friction labs chalk
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If I were a pro athlete, this is the chalk I would want to sponsor me. But I'm not a pro athlete...that means FrictionLabs' pricing is on the stiff side.
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We bought every climbing chalk known to climbers and ranked them all. Which climbing chalk has the best grip? Which climbing chalk is most affordable? Which climbing chalk smells the best? What is the best climbing chalk? All these questions will be answered.
